III. You’ve Got the Gear. Now What?

Time to start shooting! To start things off, figure out how to turn on the Auto Exposure Bracketing feature on your camera. Because I’m trying to keep this entry as short and simple as possible, I’ll leave this task up to you. DON’T turn it on yet, however. (Don’t know how? check your owner’s manual, or just Google it.)

First, frame up your subject. For best results, find a scene that includes bright and dark features – such as a sunset/sunrise. Select the settings to best capture the scene; keep testing until you’re comfortable with your result.

–> Once you are confident with your settings, turn ON AEB. Most cameras will give you an option as to how many bracketed exposures you’d like to take (3 is the standard – one underexposed, one normal, and one overexposed). Select 3.

—> Select the amount of difference in exposure variance between each bracketed image, called EV. (Exposure Values = different combinations of shutter speed & aperture that produce a properly exposed image). Typical EV steps between your bracketed shots are between 1 and 1/3 of a step, with 1 being the greatest. For the most consistently dramatic results, I always select 1. This will ensure a wide range of exposure between the three shots you will be taking – meaning one shot will properly expose the highlights, another the midtones, and another the shadows.

–> Finally, it’s time to ensure your camera is completely still between shots. Set your shooting mode to continuous, turn on your self-timer, and adjust it to take 3 images at a time. By doing so, you’ll only have to press the shutter button once, and the camera will automatically take the 3 images in a burst – awesomeness indeed. This is critical when there are moving elements in your picture, such as waves. (Not sure how to do this? Owner manual/Google it. If you can’t set up a 3 shot burst, no worries – just do your best to keep the camera completely still between shots.)

bracketed shot # 1: EV 0 (normal): bracketed shot # 2: EV -1 (underexposed): bracketed shot # 3: EV +1 (overexposed):For this scene (EV 0), I played around with my settings until I achieved an image that was a happy medium – not too dark, but not too bright. The camera automatically adjusted the next two images: EV -1 and EV +1; all I had to do was press the shutter once.

IV. Now for the Fun Part: Time to Create Your HDR!

Step 1: Open Photomatix. A small window will appear with a few buttons. Select ‘Generate HDR image.’

Step 2: Add your 3 bracketed shots. The program will automatically recognize the EV values of each images. Press OK.

Step 3: Another window titled ‘Generate HDR – Options’ will pop up. For now, the default settings are good to go. Depending on your scene, and the amount of movement, either check or un-check ‘Attempt to reduce ghosting artifacts.’ Always leave ‘Take tone curve of color profile’ selected.

Step 4: Press OK. Your computer will is now processing the 3 images and combining them into a raw HDR file. Depending on how slow your computer is, this may be a good time to go crack a beer (or do some sit-ups if you’re feeling productive).

–> When finished, Photomatix will spit out an unprocessed HDR image. Don’t freak out! It will look crazy (see below) because you still need to Tone-map the image – right now you’re looking at nothing more than all three images on top of each other….a photo threesome, if you will.

NEXT: Time for a little T&M.

That’s right, we’re talking about a magical little thing called Tone Mapping. Press the ‘Tone Mapping’ button and prepare yourself to enjoy the fruits of your labor. I can’t help but feel a little bit like a kid on Christmas morning every time I do this.

BAM! Now we’re getting somewhere…

From here, it’s up to you to play around with the sliders until you’re happy with what you’ve got. Key adjustments are Strength, Saturation, Luminance, and Light Smoothing. There’s no right or wrong setting here; it’s all up to YOU, and how you want YOUR HDR to look. Your HDR….has a nice ring to it, eh?

One thing I found when I created my first HDRs: I got a little carried away with the saturation – which resulted in some cool-but-extremely-fake looking images. Just keep in mind that beauty lies in the eye of the beholder, and know that this will get easier with practice. Unleash your inner-artist!

Final Step in Photomatix: When you’re happy with the settings, go ahead and press PROCESS! Time to give your computer’s manhood a test. This may be a good time to do some more sit-ups! (read: beer #2)

the result:Sweet, right?

Lastly, it’s time to save your processed, tone-mapped, and lovely HDR as a .JPEG or .TIF. The processed file will be by default in 16-bit color mode, which makes the file size massive, and unreadable by many programs. Unless you’re planning on blowing your HDR up to the size of a wall (I’ve thought about it…), go with 8-bit JPEG. It will be a much smaller file, which fill make processing it in Photoshop/uploading it that much easier.

THAT’S IT!! YOU’RE DONE.

You’ve made your first HDR image. That wasn’t so bad, was it?

V. Closing Notes

A few quick tips for taking successful HDR’s:

1. Because you’re taking multiple exposures, the less movement in your composition, the better.

2. Typically, the best scenes for HDR shots are those that involve a wide range of highlights and shadows – especially those taken during sunrise & sunset.

–> No images of your own to practice with? Go ahead, download the example images from this blog and use ‘em…just keep it legit.

–> Want to see more HDR examples?
Visit my HDR web-gallery at www.dhuting.com.

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